A Western Canada Road Trip – Day 12
Today we visited the iconic Lake Louise. This is a moment I have waited for for nearly a decade.
Given this is probably one of the most popular locations in the world, my boyfriend Callum, and I knew we had to go as early as possible.
To guarantee seeing Lake Louise, you can take a shuttle, but given this was COVID times the shuttles weren’t operating.
Early Start for Lake Louise
We kicked off Day 12 bright and early, heading straight for Lake Louise to beat the crowds, skipping breakfast, and heading straight to the lake to ensure we got a parking spot, arriving around 7:30 am.
We managed to get a spot and rushed to the lake with the other early risers. I’m glad we arrived so early because we were able to take some great photos before the masses descended upon this iconic spot.
I was worried because it was cloudy, but I actually think I like the photos better like this. I like moody photos. Callum set up his tripod, and we also took a cute couple pic.
After our photoshoot, we headed back our campervan for a much-needed breakfast, before doing the Teahouse Hike. One of the best things about renting a campervan is the freedom it gives you. You can prioritize experiences like this, and then whip up a meal in a parking lot! We made a quick bagel and cream cheese before embarking on the Teahouse Hike.
Lake Louise Tea House Hike Via Lake Agnes Trail
I am a big tea person so the fact you could hike to a teahouse is honestly so cool. I used to work at a loose leaf tea shop so I know a lot about tea, and a criteria for what makes a good tea (at least to me).
The hike starts to the right side of the lake. You get different perspectives of Lake Louise as you ascend Lake Agnes Trail, and you can stop at other scenic spots along the way like Mirror Lake and the Devil’s Thumb. The hike itself was pretty chill, the elevation gain is 435m and it is 7.4km out-and-back. All Trails rates it as a moderate hike.
For those who don’t like hiking, you can hire horses to take you to the Lake Agnes Tea House.
Lake Agnes Tea House
At the end of the Lake Agnes Trail you reach the Lake Agnes Tea House. This tea house was built in 1901 as a refuge for hikers who were traveling to higher locations. By 1905, it started serving tea.
The Lake Agnes Tea House is located on Lake Agnes.
When we arrived at the Tea House it was lightly raining and there was a line up. The line didn’t take too long, maybe 10 minutes and is totally worth the stop. Even though it was chilly, we chose to sit outside on the covered patio. I ordered the Queen’s Favourite Tea, which was a black tea.
The tea itself was fine. It was loose leaf, but I think my expectations were too high. The Queen’s Favourite Tea is actually known as Keemun Hoa Yaa. It is described as having a rich aroma, complex taste, and extremely rare. I would like to try this tea in the way I know how to make it. I think it could be a couple of issues: the loose leaf was put into a tea bag vs. steeped in a loose leaf steeper at the right times and temperatures. It’s hard to know how long a tea bag has been sitting when it’s brought to you.
All of this aside, I would totally visit the Lake Agnes Tea House again. The experience was incredible. Being in a historic Tea House that you hike to in the Canadian Rockies is epic.
Bad Weather at Lake Agnes Tea House
While we were at the Tea House the weather turned for the worse. It started to hail, and rain even harder.
We had planned to hike up to the Big Beehive, so we decided to wait along the side of the Tea House. We didn’t want to take up a table any longer when there were so many people waiting.
While waiting we saw chipmunks scampering about, and birds bopping around. I loved it.
We waited half an hour, but the weather hadn’t really changed and we were getting cold. With the Beehives in the clouds, it didn’t really make sense to hike up in this weather.
As we descended the Lake Agnes Trail, there were trail runners who had just gone up to the beehives. They confirmed our suspicions and the Beehives were in fact in the clouds.
One day I will hike the Beehives (and stop at the Tea House to try another tea).
Arriving Back At Lake Louise
Reaching the lake, we were greeted by a sea of people. I could not believe the contrast to when we visited in the early morning hours. I am very glad we went when we did.
We took a few more photos and then headed back to Lake Louise Campground.
Lake Louise Campground – A Glacial Shower
Back at our campsite at Lake Louise Campground, Callum decided to brave the glacial stream behind our campsite. Naturally the sun came out when we arrived back at the campsite.
Since the showers in National Parks have been closed due to COVID, and our shower bag broke, it had been a while since we showered. Callum decided to brace the glacial stream and freshen up. Despite the frigid water, he was happy to be clean.
There’s typically a trail you can explore at the campground, but there was a grizzly bear siting so it was closed.
As night fell, Callum got creative with his camera and captured a stunning timelapse of our campervan beneath a star-studded sky. Another day, another set of unforgettable memories!
Tomorrow we head back to Yoho National Park for a day trip. We are attempting to conquer the Iceline, Little Yoho Valley and Yoho Valley Trail Loop. A 21.7km hike.
Prepare for your Trip
Learn
A few books, documentaries, and podcasts I recommend consuming before or during your trip to Canada 🇨🇦. Evolving Pop Culture Guide to Canada.
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