A Western Canada Road Trip – Day 15
After a dreamy night at Wilcox Campground, my boyfriend, Callum and I had breakfast, and continued down the Icefields Parkway towards Jasper National Park in our campervan, stopping at Maligne Lake.
The day was filled with a mix of planned stops, and unexpected encounters, showcasing the beauty and wonder of the Canadian Rockies.
This was one of my favourite days as we made it to Maligne Lake. Unexpectedly, it is now one of my favourite places in the world.
Icefields Parkway: Sunwapta Falls and Goats & Glaciers Viewpoints
Our first stop was Sunwapta Falls, a popular spot with easy access from the parking lot and a paved path. We walked around here for a bit and took pictures.
After going to see the falls, we went inside, grabbed a couple of souvenirs, and I got a tea. I also posed with this bear wearing a mask. I loved it.
Next we stopped at Goats and Glaciers. I was hoping for goats, but I saw none. Still worth a stop at the viewpoint, but I really wish I saw a mountain goat.
We were making good time. We pulled over at a few more scenic lookouts, and continued toward Jasper National Park. Since we were making good time, we decided to book a boat ride on Maligne Lake.
Maligne Lake Boat Cruise & Moose
The Maligne Lake Boat Cruise is one of my favourite experiences ever. We did the Classic Cruise (1.5 hrs), departing at 3:45 pm.
Due to COVID, it wasn’t busy and they had significantly reduced the number of people who could ride in the boat at one time. Our tour guide was telling us all of this, and I definitely appreciated having less people.
This cruise is awesome and I highly recommend it. The boat takes you towards Spirit Island, with a view of the Hall of Gods along the way. Our guide was telling us history about the region, and it has stuck with me.
Spirit Island & Hall of Gods
Spirit Island is only accessible by boat (or you can canoe or kayak). You get 15 minutes across from the island, but you can’t go directly onto the island.
Spirit Island is a spiritual place for the Stoney Nakoda First Nation. They believe the mountains are a physical representations of their ancestors. Spirit Island is surrounded by three sides of the same mountain range, which is very rare and significant.
The Hall of Gods was the name for the box canyon (where the island sits) coined by the artist and explorer, Mary Schäffer in 1908. She said that, “if Lake Louise is the pearl, Maligne is the entire pearl necklace.”
I get what Mary was saying. There is an intimacy, and peace around Spirit Island that I haven’t really felt in other places I have visited in the world. My memory here is so special that I don’t think I would go back by boat for a very long time. Perhaps I would canoe or kayak in the future though.
Moose at Maligne Lake
On our boat trip going back, our guide told us this story about how one of their co-workers dressed up as a moose once, and walked the path along the lake that people on the boat could see. From the distance they were at, they thought it was a real moose.
I thought this was pretty funny, but this also made me reflect on how badly I wanted to see a moose.
A few minutes go by, and the boat docks. We get out, and I look towards the path by the restaurant. I thought it would be good to get some dinner, but then I saw a moose walking into the lake!
I could not believe my eyes. After hearing the story from the guide, at first I was like, “is this a prank”, but quickly realized it was obviously a real moose.
I headed towards the moose and filmed it for probably 30 minutes. I assumed it would only be with us for a few moments, but it must be used to people, and it was prioritizing eating. A moose after my own heart.
This was honestly such a magical experience, and one of my favourite days ever. After the moose times, we headed to the restaurant, but it was closed 😢. It closed while we were watching the moose, but no regrets. I will always prioritize the fleeting moments with wildlife over going to dinner.
Scouting Astrophotography Locations
We got in our campervan, and headed towards Medicine Lake. This was on the drive back towards our campsite at Wapiti Campground. It was raining a bit, but we saw another moose!!! It was walking along Maligne Lake Road. What are the chances? Must be a moosey place.
We stopped at Medicine Lake, despite the rain, as it is supposed to be great for astrophotography. This was one of the locations Callum was considering (weather dependent).
Next, we decided to stop at the Jasper Park Lodge. On the map we could see a lake, and Callum really wants a reflective shot of the Milky Way in a lake.
When we got to Jasper Park Lodge, we realized it’s basically a gated property. However, they let us drive through without a reservation which I found surprising. We realized this location wasn’t really an option either.
Wapiti Campground
We headed to our campsite at Wapiti Campground. Wapiti actually means elk, which I think is cool.
When we got in the campground they gave us a brochure on elk rutting season. Rutting is their mating season, and they can be aggressive so they told us to watch out.
It has been amazing seeing so much wildlife. I love Jasper.
We made dinner in our campervan, but due to the clouds and rain, no astrophotography for Callum this night.
This is really too bad, as Jasper is a dark sky preserve, and I purposefully booked a few nights here to increase Callum‘s chances of being able to take photos of the Milky Way.
Something I have learned this trip is how much clouds, and the weather impact astrophotography.
Hopefully the weather will be better tomorrow night.
Tomorrow we are hiking the Valley of the Five Lakes and visiting Jasper Park Brewery! This is Canada’s first brewery in a National Park!
Prepare for your Trip
Learn
A few books, documentaries, and podcasts I recommend consuming before or during your trip to Canada 🇨🇦. Evolving Pop Culture Guide to Canada.
Discover the beauty of Canada’s sunniest province! Majestic mountains, diverse hikes, glacial lakes, dinosaurs and more. Alberta (AB) is home to North America’s largest mountain range, the second largest dark sky preserve in the world, iconic Canadian wildlife, and a place where dinosaurs used to roam. No matter the time of year, AB won’t disappoint (I would know because I have visited in almost every season)! Learn from my firsthand human, Canadian experience what Alberta is like, must-sees, and tips in my Alberta Travel Destination Guide.